The Beauty And Tradition Of Central Java

During my recent visit to central Java (July 2010), I visited the cemetery of the Mataram Kingdom in Imogiri, some 12 kilometers southeast of the Royal and ancient city of Yogyakarta.

It's located on a hill top that overlooks the Bantul regency and it can be reached by climbing nearly 400 steps of a rather steep stairway that leads to three main courtyards. There, the tombs of the Royal descendants of Yogyakarta and Surakarta are placed.

Almost all of the kings of the Mataram Kingdom - from Sultan Agung onwards - and its successor houses of Yogyakarta and Surakarta Sultanate, as well as many of their family members, are buried here. For centuries, their tombs have become a place of pilgrimage and ceremony for all that hold the Royal families of central Java in high regard.

Going into the courtyards, men must wear black or dark blue lurik (traditional Javanese hand woven fabric) and are not allowed to wear their kris, (traditional Javanese dagger). Women must wear the traditional Javanese dress. For a small fee, visitors can "rent" the traditional dresses from the so called abdi dalem or keeper of the cemetery.

Being here, one senses mystique. The atmosphere is utterly serene and laden with history and traditional enigma. The white buildings that make up for this fortress-like collection of former Royal dwellings are kept in perfect condition. One would not even remotely think that these structures were first erected in 1645. Immediately one realizes the important role the Royal families of Yogya and Solo (Surakarta) must have played in this part of Java. For nearly four centuries and as part of the Kingdom of Mataram they truly were the rulers of Central Java.

Given the early hour of the day, the place was eerily still. And when I stood there on the top section of the cemetery, I noticed an old man entering the gate that leads to the three courtyards. He must be at least eighty years old. The advanced years had caused his back to hunch.

Aided by a walking stick cautiously he walked. Clad in traditional Javanese attire, his head was covered by a blangkon (traditional Javanese head cover). The moment I saw the man I was elated and felt as if I was pulled back into central Java’s rich historic past. As there was no one else but he and I, a chill went down my spine.

Suddenly I realized the enormous significance of central Java's historic past and the role that Yogya always had played in it. Still today, the roots of this ancient city are never far from sight. Unfortunately, and hit by Blackberries, internet and global connectivity, slowly but surely we're losing touch with what has made Yogya the seat of the once mighty Javanese empire of Mataram, a supreme cultural center.

It is in Imogiri, and in particular at the cemetery of the Kingdom of Mataram, where we can re-connect.